Historic Pensacola consists of three distinct districts -- Seville, Palafox, and North Hill -- though they are easy to explore as a unit. Stroll down streets mapped out by the British and renamed by the Spanish, such as Cervantes, Palafox, Intendencia, and Tarragona. Be warned, though, that it is best to stick to the beaten path: Pensacola is a port town and can get rough around the edges, especially at night.

PENSACOLA BEACH. At this beach, beachcombers and sunbathers, sailboarders and sailors keep things going at a fever pitch in and out of miles of white sands and green gulf waters. 5 mi south of Pensacola, PHONE: 850/932-2258.

SANTA ROSA ISLAND. The site of beaches, natural areas, and the town of Pensacola Beach, this barrier island, part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, draws visitors for more than seascapes and water sports. It's also a must for cyclists and bird-watchers. Since 1971 more than 280 species of birds, from the common loon to the majestic osprey, have been spotted here. Two caveats for visitors: "Leave nothing behind but your footprints," and -- enforced by mighty big fines -- "Don't pick the sea oats," the natural grasses that help keep the dunes intact. For beaches and recreational facilities, the Santa Rosa Day Use Area is 10 mi east of Pensacola Beach.

FORT PICKENS. At the western tip of Santa Rosa Island and part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, Fort Pickens dates from 1834. Constructed of more than 21 million locally made bricks, the fort once served as the prison of Apache chief Geronimo, who was reportedly fairly well liked by his captors. Other attractions are a beach, nature exhibits, a museum, a large campground, and a visitor center. Ranger station at Fort Pickens Rd., PHONE: 850/934-2635. COST: $6 per car. Daily 8:30-sunset.